My Personal Journey

Before coming to Thailand I had so many fears—What if I’m too overwhelmed to handle it? What if I miss Ismail too much? What if I can’t teach English as a foreign language? What if I just feel lost and alone? But I also had the strong feeling that it was the right thing for me at this time in my life for many important reasons. It was more than just the desire to see a part of the world I had always dreamed about. Above all else this is a journey towards self growth. It’s about losing old crutches that I no longer need so I can become the best possible me. I have kept that at the forefront of my mind since I’ve been here because I did not want this trip to turn into just an extended vacation for me to have fun, but then just return with the same old baggage I came with. I know that God has laid this path in front of me for this purpose— so that I can return home ready for the next phase of my life.

As I reflect on my first 2 ½ months I am so proud of my progress. I see myself now versus when I first got here and I notice the difference. I have made concrete changes physically towards self growth that have already created a more positive self outlook. I am enjoying things again that I hadn’t done for a long time like writing and scrapbooking. I have things to do now that don’t involve simply watching tv and waiting for Ismail. I’m making friends here, and enjoying their company. I have done things I thought I’d never do like driving a motorbike, attending a Buddhist service, and taking trips on my own. I know how to navigate my way around the bus terminals, the airport, the ferry, and the minivan stations, and I look less like a tourist and more like a “farang” that lives here. People notice me on the bus and say hello. I’ve even been stopped by directions by lost Westerners and been able to point them in the right direction. I’m learning my numbers and am able to bargain shop in Thai now and understand the price of street food when I ask “tao rye kah?” (how much?).  What is most important about all these experiences are that they’re creating a more independent, confident me.

I promised myself that I would make the most out of this experience in every way;  that it would be so much more than just a fun trip I had, which I had to borrow money from Ismail to take. I am making good on that promise so far.  I still have some major goals to accomplish, but each time I accomplish 1 goal, it give me more confidence that I can accomplish the more difficult ones. I look forward to the woman I will become at the end of this beautiful path. 

Pic. 1 - July - Commute

Pic. 2 - Aug. - National Museum

Pic. 3 - Sept. - Commute

Pic. 4 - Sept. - Koh Samui

Pic. 5 - Sept. - Phetchaburi

Phetchaburi - Discovering the "real" Thailand

There were 3 main reasons I wanted to visit Phetchaburi. First, and most important, I read about the huge monkey population, which I was dying to see. Second, I wanted to learn to ride a motorbike in a relatively traffic-free area, and third, it’s close to Bangkok and doesn’t involve more than 2 modes of transportation to get there. After my painful travel to Koh Samui, I needed something easy for my next weekend getaway. In addition, it’s close to 2 fairly well known beaches – Cha-Am and Hua Hin, and it’s very much off the tourist map so I knew I wouldn’t be immersed in the Disney version of Thailand. I definitely received all of these perks and more.

So first I have to mention that in all my travel guides it talks about how friendly and inviting the Thai’s are. I finally got a chance to experience the kindness of strangers here in Thailand. I had a man and his wife drive me to my guesthouse when I got off the minivan, purely out of the kindness of their hearts; then the next day a woman came out of a beauty salon in curlers to assist me with directions.

I was truly touched though when I joined in a morning Buddhist service. I felt uncomfortable, naturally, being the only Westerner and obviously not understanding the language or the customs. I sat down quietly in the back and put my camera away and just tried to do what they were doing. Within the first 5 minutes I had members bringing me water and a juice box. People were turning to smile warmly at me, and some old ladies came up to greet me. I was feeling a little uneasy with all the attention. The service consisted of the monks sitting on the stage eating the breakfast alms they had collected in the morning, while another monk sat in front reading something. There was periodic bowing, and I just followed along. It was funny because one lady came up to tell me that it was ok to take pictures, but I still felt uncomfortable about doing so, which is why there’s only 1.  One of the monks on stage even jabbed the monk next to him to point me out – recognized by a Monk—cool. J  After the service, several ladies insisted I join them all for breakfast, which is part of the service. I sat at a long table eating corn muffins with coconut, while fielding the many questions from around the table, which consisted of, “where you from?” and “what your name?” Overall it was a wonderful experience and something I’ve wanted to do since I got here.

I feel like Phetchaburi was the perfect place to experience real Thai life. It’s a small town surrounded with scenic views of the palace ruins, and a quaintly charming vibe. There is one main street, with little lanes branching off it, some not even paved. The pretty little town has more old teak houses than I’ve seen in one area before, which really add to the towns appeal. There’s just something about those old wooden buildings that I love. Plus, in the center of downtown is this beautiful park with little bridges over Koi ponds, and huge trees with monkey’s swinging from the tops. 

 There’s not all that much to do in Phetchaburi, aside from the palace ruins and the beautiful Khao Luang Cave. But that’s part of its appeal. I thoroughly enjoyed cruising slowly around on my rented motorbike, riding into the various working Wat’s (temples), and speaking to friendly Thai’s who didn’t want anything from me except to make me feel welcome. It was the true small town feel, Thai style. 

So, saving the best for last is my experience with the monkeys! Wow. When I first got close to the bottom of the mountain of which lies the palace at the top, I saw animals in the distance all over the streets. At first I thought they were stray cats but when I got closer I got my first taste of a town overrun with monkeys. The kind of thing you see on tv, but don’t ever think you’ll see in real life. I drove to the top of the hill and had this courtyard on temple grounds all to myself. It was just me, the stray dogs, and the monkeys. It is good that I took this trip by myself because I’m not sure anyone else would have wanted to spend the kind of time I did just watching those monkeys (aside from Sue Angelini who is a huge animal lover – Sue, if you’re reading you should come visit me; plenty of cats & monkeys ;) . So I hung out in that courtyard for 3 hours solid and loved every minute of it. Watching monkeys is fascinating because they seem so intelligent and their actions and movements are so similar to people. That video I posted for example is so amazing because you can see this mother’s worry over her baby. She pulls him out of the water and carries him off because I was too close. I just loved being able to witness their world.

The longer I’m in Thailand, the more deeply I fall in love with it, and desire experiences such as these – places with such a genuine feel. I love seeing the tourist areas as well – they are beautiful and warrant the crowds—but there’s something so special about just being somewhere amongst people who are culturally different, and being able to experience life as they live it, without all the glitz set up for the tourists.  This was the reason I came to Thailand and I’m hungry for more!

Koh Samui: My First Solo Vacation

Koh Samui – My first solo vacation

I should have written about my trip to Koh Samui a couple weeks ago, but works been busy so now it’s been 2 vaca’s ago, but no matter. I had a Friday off and decided to fly down to Southern Thailand on the Gulf side and visit the popular island of Koh Samui. 

The flight from Bangkok to Surat Thani was uneventful and fast. But then the fun began.  I was thinking it would be just a quick hop, skip and a jump to get off the mainland and to the Island. I was sorely mistaken. From the airport the trip consists of another 9 hours to actually get to Koh Samui. Yes, I typed that correct – 9 hours! 2 hour minivan ride from airport to Pier. Overnight ferry leaves mainland at 11pm, arrives at 5am, taxi from pier to resort - 1 hour, four wheel drive in jeep to top of mountain resort - 10 min. J No sweat. 

So I arrive early Friday morning to the top of this mountain resort overlooking the beach. The view took my breath away. The place was spectacular – far surpassing my expectations. I took a million pictures and posted them to facebook so I will skip the description. Suffice it to say, I was truly in paradise. I spent my morning in my own private gazebo overlooking the beach, having breakfast, sipping my coffee and taking everything in. It was so peaceful and I thought, “being on my own has its benefits.” Of course I had to share it with Ismail so I skyped him and showed him around the resort. J 

Chaweng beach was of course beautiful; white sand, aqua clear warm water. I swam for hours, walked the length of the beach, and started a new book (The Beach in honor of Koh Samui, where the novel takes place). Chaweng beach is overrun by tourists, which takes something away from its charm, yet it is still an amazingly beautiful beach. So after my relaxing beach day I headed back to my resort in paradise and just enjoyed the beauty. 

The next day I took one of the many day long tours to Ang Thong Marine Park, which is a series of islands that have national park status and are therefore off limits to developers. I did the kayaking trip, which was too short, but when you’re with a tour guide everything is rushed. I much prefer exploring things on my own, but doing so at Ang Thong is not possible unless you want to spend a fortune and charter a private longtail boat. The day was beautiful, and I enjoyed swimming in the ocean off the main beach, and climbing the steep stairs to the aqua lagoon in the jungle.

Overall my solo trip to Koh Samui – especially the time spent at the Jungle Club Resort—was something I will always hold dear in my heart. When I call it back to memory, it’s made up of breathtaking images, and the feeling of true peace of mind. Taking a vacation alone gave me the chance to enjoy my own company and it was a growing experience. I will go back to the Jungle Club before I leave, but next time it will be as a married woman with Ismail at my side.

The Jewels of Bangkok

Several of my Thailand guide books explain Bangkok as a place where two extremes collide. My Nat. Geo traveler book says, “Here, the truly shocking, horrendous, and horrible exist alongside moments of pure beauty…walk slowly and you will see the magnificence of carved fruit among vendors selling copy watches, the girl smiling selling exquisite floral baskets next to an open sewer, a Buddhist shrine at a busy intersection, and perhaps an old Hindu astrologer predicting people’s fortunes in the middle of all this madness.”

I love this Nat. Geo description of my adopted city because it so eloquently describes my experience here. My neighborhood is a great example. It is mostly a working class area with a lot of rundown buildings, massive pollution, overcrowding, and streets with sleazy strip joints. Yet, if you peel back the layers of these streets, you see beauty. I see beauty everywhere when I look for it.

The other morning I walked behind a man with 2 heaping baskets of these deliciously fragrant flowers. Their perfume was able to mask the smell of exhaust fumes from passing tuk-tuks. On my bus ride home every day, I pass this old wooden house next to the Bang Sue Canal. It stands out in such a beautifully unique way amongst its surroundings of concrete. It seems like something taken right out of Bangkok’s rural past. Or the bats that swoop down from the huge trees that shadow my lane at night, and the banana trees hanging over the walls of homes, which gives new meaning to the term “urban jungle.”

My own metaphor for Bangkok is that it’s a treasure map where you have to follow the clues to seek out and find the jewels that are hidden beneath the surface. I’ve got 7 more months to find the riches that Bangkok has to offer.

Pic. 1 - tree on my street where bats live

Pic. 2 - wooden house on Bang Sue canal

Pic. 3 - Inside the store of the wooden house - old man works/lives there and he takes care of the stray dogs; another example of beauty

Pic. 4 - Bang Sue Canal

Pic. 5 - Banana tree in Bangkok

Pic. 6 - Frangipane tree in Bangkok